Brakes settings are strongly dependent on personal preference, hardware, track temperature, amount of fuel, etc. Do not hesitate to change them to your liking if you download a setup from somewhere. In fact, checking/changing the master cylinders is probably the first thing you should do each time you get a new set up.
Master Cylinders – Front and Rear
With larger cylinders you have to put more pressure on the brake pedal to obtain the same braking force.
If the rear master cylinder is larger than the front, for a given pedal pressure the rear brakes will receive less braking force. This is similar to having the brake bias forward.
Consider increasing the master cylinders if:
- you are having troubles modulating the brakes;
- you tend to lock the wheels, or;
- if you simply like to put more pressure on the brake pedal.
This is an excerpt from the ‘adapt a baseline setup’ guide, which will soon become available on this website.
Percentage of the brake bias going to the front wheels.
- If you are locking the front tyres under braking: consider moving it backward.
- If you are locking the rear tyres: consider moving it forward
Locking the front tyres is usually safer than locking the rears. First of all, you will see it with your eyes and will be able to adjust to it. Furthermore, when you lock the rear the car tends to spin away (think about pulling the handbrake). When locking the front, you “just” go straight for a while.
More rearward bias will help the car rotate into the corners, if you use trailbraking (applying brakes while turning into a corner).